Your guide to a great analysis
The more our trainer can see and understand, the more precise your plan will be. Follow these pointers and you'll get advice that's truly tailored to your dog.
Filming your video
Your video is the heart of the analysis. These four habits make the biggest difference to how accurately we can read your dog.
The single most useful thing you can send is footage of the actual problem happening — the barking, the pulling, the jumping. A calm dog sitting still tells our trainer very little.
Natural daylight is ideal. Avoid filming into a bright window or in dim rooms. We need to clearly see your dog's face, ears, tail and body posture — those are the biggest clues.
Landscape (sideways) video shows more of the room and your dog's whole body. Keep the camera steady — prop it up or ask someone to film so both your hands are free if needed.
Frame the full body, not just the head. If something sets the behavior off (the doorbell, another dog, the leash), try to catch the moment right before, during, and just after.
Do this
- Film the moment the behavior actually happens
- Include 10–20 seconds of the lead-up before it starts
- Keep the environment natural — act as you normally would
- Record sound so we can hear cues, barking, and your commands
- Send more than one clip if the behavior happens in different situations
Avoid this
- Don't stage or over-correct your dog for the camera
- Don't crop out yourself — your timing and body language matter
- Don't send only photos or very short (1–2 second) clips
- Don't film vertically zoomed in so tight we lose the body
- Don't worry about it being 'perfect' — real everyday footage is best
Writing your story
Context turns a good video into a great diagnosis. Cover these six points in your submission notes and you'll give our trainer everything they need.
Describe the behavior in plain words — e.g. 'lunges and barks at other dogs on walks' rather than just 'reactive'.
Time of day, indoors vs outdoors, on-leash vs off-leash, home vs public. Patterns are gold.
People at the door, food, being left alone, specific dogs, certain sounds — whatever you've noticed.
Tell us what worked, what didn't, and any training or tools you've used. It saves time and avoids repeat advice.
Breed/mix, age, how long you've had them, and any history (rescue, past incidents, health issues).
Your goal helps us prioritise the plan — calmer walks, quiet doorbell, confident alone-time, etc.
Uploading tips
- Videos upload directly and securely — only you and your trainer can view them.
- Files up to 500MB are supported (most phone clips are well under this).
- MP4 and MOV files from any modern phone work great.
- Stay on a stable Wi-Fi connection for large files and keep the tab open until it finishes.
- If a file is too big, trim it to the key moments before uploading — shorter, focused clips are more useful anyway.
Pre-submit checklist
A quick run-through before you hit submit.
- The behavior is clearly visible in the footage
- Lighting is good and the whole dog is in frame
- Sound is on
- I've described what happens, when, and the likely trigger
- I've noted what I've already tried and my main goal
- The video finished uploading before I hit submit
Common questions
Ready when you are
You've got the pointers — now let's solve the pawblem. Choose a plan or head to your dashboard to submit your video.